Hi
I am planning a trip to Africa to mark my 50th birthday in 2006. Gorillas are a must, but the rest of my itinerary is flexible so long as there is the opportunity to see the 'big 5'. Any views on whether I should go to Kenya for the Masai Mara or stick to the Queen Elizabeth GP in Uganda? As this is my first experience of this type of trip I will be using an established tour operator on a truck and camping type trip and many companies offer both options.
Any opinions & advice welcome.

Thanks
Ian

In six months (fifteen countries) in Africa, the highlight was Serengetti National Park, accessable from Arusha in Tanzania (six hours by bus from Nairobi). We arranged a camping tour with a local operator over the internet, and it couldn't have worked out better. We saw all of the Big Five and much more in four days in the Park. We were there in November. If you want more info contact be via email at Brian@perconline.com

Ian,

Great idea for your 50th. While Queen Elizabeth has some wonderful wildlife, the Big 5 do not all live there. But QE does have the rare giant forest hog that you will not likely see in Kenya or Tanzania. Plus the boat ride on the Kazinga Channel in QE is one of the most wildlife-packed water activities anywhere.

For the big 5, I'd suggest:
Masai Mara in Kenya (late June to Oct)
Southern Serengeti in Tanzania (Jan to April)
Northern Serengeti in Tanzania (Aug to Nov)
These months coincide with the bulk of the migration, which you also would not see in QE.

The tricky 2 of the 5 are the leopard and the rhino. For the leopard, I believe for the non-traditionalists, the standard has been expanded to include just a "spotted cat" so that the cheetah will work for the Big 5. The best places to see a leopard in East Africa are the Serengeti and Samburu, in Kenya. For the rhino, the best place to see it is in Lewa Downs, a rhino sanctuary for both black and white rhino, in Kenya.

If the Big 5 for the Big 5-Oh is really important to you, I'd consider going to the parks where leopard or rhino sitings are most likely. But with nature, nothing is guaranteed. BL Johnson stated he was in the Serengeti for 4 days (with much success) and I too would suggest at least 4 days to increase your odds of seeing what you came so far to find.

Have a great birthday with the gorillas.

Lynn email: atravelynn@netscape.net

Belated response to your November request - you should seriously consider Samburu National Park. Spectacular semi-desert scenery; most of the Big Five present (leopards very shy and reclusive); wonderful bird life; giraffe and zebra species unique to Samburu. Samburu Lodge is a wonderful place to stay right by the Uaso Ngiro river (you can watch the crocodiles being fed at night and, later on, listen to baboons being hunted by leopards - they make a lot of noise about it but then, wouldn't you?)

Belated response to your November request - you should seriously consider Samburu National Park in Kenya. Spectacular semi-desert scenery; most of the Big Five present (leopards very shy and reclusive); wonderful bird life; giraffe and zebra species unique to Samburu. Samburu Lodge is a wonderful place to stay right by the Uaso Ngiro river (you can watch the crocodiles being fed at night and, later on, listen to baboons being hunted by leopards - they make a lot of noise about it but then, wouldn't you?) Lake Nakuru is also worth a visit - hordes of flamingos, plus lots of buffalo and several white rhino. Masai Mara was a bit dull by comparison - thousands of wildebeest standing around looking stupid.

I agree with Martin - Samburu is amazing. But we had THE most fantastic time in the Masai Mara. What an astounding place AND we saw everything.

The Mara is great if you don't mind doing your safari in a crowd. You can see everything there but you normally do it surrounded by scores of other vehicles.

It's not the place to go if you want to enjoy nature in relative isolation. But to see game, you can't miss.

Here are some Masai Mara travel journals that have some useful info about previous travellers experiences there.