I have just returned from the most incredible trip to Tanzania and Kenya, but beware of booking your safari from Arusha with a company called Kindoroko Tours http://www.kindorokotour.com/
we were staying at Arusha Backpackers (*highly recommended*) and one day were cornered by the man running the tour office there (generally referred to as 'Mr. Slimey') and ushered into his office, where we were given safari information. We were late to meet friends, and assured this man we would return, which we did. We eventually agreed to use Kindoroko Tours as our safari organiser, after cheking out some other companies. Unfortunately we were tied to time and the company we really wanted to travel with (Sunny Safaris - very professional and highly regarded) could't accomodate our timetable.

We had arranged to leave on the Tuesday at 9am. Well, we thought it was 9am. Another of our party was told 8.30am, and someone else was told 8.45am). We were ready to go and our vehicle was there, but there was no sign of our driver. At 9.45, a man in a rasta had and a billabong tshirt showed up, told us his name was Bori and that he was our driver/guide. It should have taken us about 2 hours to get to our first park, Lake Manyara, but as Bori did not see to have any idea as to how to drive (trying to get up hills in 4th gear and managing a modest 40kph on the highway) we didn't arrive at our accomodation until lunchtime and didn't get into the park until about 2.30pm. Half a day WASTED. Once in the park, Bori unwillingly followed our plan, which was to prioritise visits the hippo pool and the hot springs. After much grumbling, Bori agreed. After the hippo pool, Bori regularly told us how other drivers were saying that the road to the hot springs was 'very, very bad.' Over an hour later, there was still no sign of the springs and Bori was getting frustrated. It became obvious he had no idea where he was when he asked another driver for advice, turned the vehicle and set off back the way we came. It turned out we had passed the hot springs about 20 minutes previously and when chellenged, Bori became very agitated and said he had continued up the mountain road 'to look for something.' He then raised his voice and became quite threatening, by which time we had decided to keep our mouths shut as we didn't want to be abandoned in the middle of a national park. We were then told we had to hurry back for dinner, so Bori proceeded to reach speeds of 60kph through the park, almost killing an Impala that was hidden round a corner. We were outraged, but Bori told us 'I know what I am doing and it is fine.' IT IS NOT FINE!! The remainder of the journey was in silence, apart from when we marvelled that Bori could reach 60kph in a National Park but once on the highway again, struggled to reach 40kph. After rushing back for dinner, we then had to wait a further hour before any food was ready. We also discovered that Kindoroko Tours, who own a newly built lodge near Lake Manyara that we were staying in, had overbooked the accommodation. On our initial arrival, we were offered individual rooms. On our return, there was a new group of people and my sister and I ended up sharing our room with a girl from our tour, who had to sleep on a mattress on the floor. We weren't too happy!

The following day, we hoped that things would go a little better. We had breakfast at 6am, determined to get on the road early and make the most of our day at Ngorongoro. No such luck. Our accomplished driver had lost the oil cap for the vehicle, and we were delayed by almost an hour while we looked for the cap and a worker tried to fashion a new one from the sole of a flip flop. Not particularly safe! We eventually got on the road, travelling at our numbingly slow 40kph, when we were lucky to go that fast. Bori seemed to be in a slightly better mood, and was beginning to make an effort to spot some animals (the previous day, we had done any spotting ourselves). We had heard talk of lions being about, eventually finding them. We had queried the presence of more than one lion, but were reliably informed by Bori that 'that is not a lion, I think that is a bush.' Imagine our surprise when the 'bush' got up and walked to join the other lions! Once again, our driver/guide had surpassed himself. We had a more pleasant day in the crater, with less maniacal driving and the opportunity to actually stop and look at the animals. However, we were still to make our ascent, which turned out to be perilous. At one stage, the back right wheel of the vehicle was handing off the road as the vehicle had cut out (again. This was a regular occurrence as Bori continually tried to climb steep hills in 2nd gear and the revs got too low.) and I truly believed that we were going to topple off the road. Thankfully, we made it to the top. It was only that evening over dinner that I discovered that both my sister and another man from our group had thought exactly the same thing.

We were so lucky as we saw so many animals in two incredible parks, but we wasted so much time hanging around waiting for everything. It should also be known that my sister and I had arranged a price of $115 per person per day, and just before we left the hotel 'Mr. Slimey' took us aside and told us 'The American man has paid more than you for his safari, so if he asks you, just tell him you paid $200 each.' We did not know what to say, as my sister and I do not make a habit of lying for other people, perticularly those who are supposed to be running a business. We did not lie to the man, and when he asked how much we had paid (as he was convinced he had been cheated), we told him. It turns out that 'Mr. Slimey' had also told him that the standard tip was $50 per day, between the 4 of us, for both the driver/guide and the cook. This seemed rather extortionate, although we did not know what the going rate was.

Lessons learnt:
1. If you are even the slightest bit uncomfortable with the man who has ushered you into his office against your will - DON'T BOOK A SAFARI WITH HIS COMPANY!

2. Make sure your driver knows how to drive

3. Make sure your guide knows his way round the park you are visiting

4. Clarify exactly where you will be sleeping, and /or sharing a room with

5. AVOID KINDOROKO TOURS!!