Frances Lodge in Siena (www.franceslodge.it) was the most charming and scenic spot we stayed in all of Italy. From the lemon farmhouse there are 360 degree views of the Tuscan hills and cypress trees and our hosts were so friendly and spoiled us throughout our second honeymoon. Franco and Frances treated us to fresh breakfasts of Toscano salamis, pecorino cheeses and homemade jam (Frances also gave us a taste of olive oil pressed from trees on the property) and drove us back and forth to the bus station. Just outside Siena’s city center, this lodge was a gorgeous break from being stuck in the center of town – (mopeds in Florence drove us batty.) All you can hear are birds. The hosts couldn’t have been nicer and they seem thrilled to have their own haven. You must have breakfast out in their garden and take a tour of the lemon trees. We stayed in the yellow superior room which not only had the softest bed but also was the most spacious room of our journey. We heard the Moroccan room was beautiful as well. Tell them Sara and Mike sent you. I still dream about that fig jam Frances makes.

Try Gallo Nero (medieval food) and Papei’s for authentic Sienese (?!) food. Franco suggested both and we loved them.