Just back from Cuba after 3 week holiday

I´ve returned from Cuba and wanted to pay back the observations and comments I have read on this forum. Thank you for them.
We (2 couples) have been travelling for 3 weeks 25.11.-15.12. – doing this route: Havana – Cienfuegos – Trinidad – Spiritus Sancti – Baracoa – Santiago de Cuba – Camaguey – Northern coast with a car (Santa Lucia/Moron/Cayo Guilermo) – Camaguey – Havana

General remarks:
No accommodation booking in advance needed (at least for us it worked ok)
Book the bus in advance (day ahead) or it might be full
Always ask for directions when you rent a car before it is too late (no signposts)
Try to learn some Spanish – it will save time and money
Prepare yourself for the worst toilets (no running water)
Try to pay unofficially (without taxation, perhaps universal but in Cuba counts double)
Cubans are generally very welcoming and open and your money in not always their prime aim
The island is very safe, no bad experience whatsoever (we had only cash), but still..
New Rough guide seemed to work a bit better than latest LP
Have always some CUPs ready

More details for anyone interested:
The airport control was quite strict and I would recommend is that – because you need to have confirmed accommodation for at lease 3 days – to have this confirmation written in Spanish (email is enough, with address).
The transfer to the city costs 25 CUC, you can get it cheaper on the way back if you use the private transfer (20 CUC)
We stayed in casa particular Casa Terazza (http://casaterraza.com/, davidestrems@infomed.sld.cu)
in Centro Havana for 23 CUC/double. The rooms were clean, had bathrooms and also we got free drinking water supply (which is very useful in Cuba!) from the kind and helpful owner, Nora. On the way back we stayed in Norma y Miguel casa particular (Telf 537 862-0572), next to the La Rampa, which we can also recommend, close to the centre, in a quite street with balconies – to get the ideal views of Havana street life - all that for 25 CUC/double sharing bathroom.
In Havana we stayed more days than we expected, 5 in total, but we enjoyed our time there definitely. UPs: Old town, pub in the Plaza Vieja – a bit touristy, but they have their own beer, Malecon (when the waves are splashing) with falling apart houses, Capitolio (just go the internet café inside and see everything without paying), Two Dragons restaurant (recommended by LP and the food is really good), Hemingway´s house (is worth the trip – it feels like oasis), “off the beaten track streets”, the open air market close the fort – can´t remember the name – especially the paintings are really good there! – no problems with export if you have it packed inside the usual luggage. DOWNs: Nightlife maybe (if you are looking for some authentic/traditional Cuban music – which is arguably better further East and smaller cities) but the El Palermo is good, Museo de Chocolate (again much better in the East and you don´t have to queue), touts (but it is not as bad as in other metropolis)
There are also two big museums – a bit overpriced but probably a must when in Havana: Museum de la Revolution (5 CUC), Havana Club museum (7 CUC).

Cienfuegos in quite and romantic place on the way to Trinidad, I would not spend more than day or two there. Nice food (state restaurant Cienfuegos – food is for CUP, but be careful drinks in CUC!!, or the pizza place as recommended in LP), clean streets, reconstructed houses (Unesco heritage), Punta Gorda and also the ferry trip to the fort is worth it, not the beaches on the other side. For acc we paid 25 CUC/ and there are plenty of places to stay.

In Trinidad expect a riot of people (if you go by bus) to offer casas particulares, some of them are quite aggressive and well prepared how to handle tourists (to rip them off). We went with the wrong person at first but found the right place later: Hostal Odalis (0141) 994449, 20 CUC/double with shared bathroom, very close to the old town. The co-owner Javier is a really nice guy, we had nice time with him as he even gave us music lesson. We also had a good chat with him about “things” in Cuba. He speaks very good English. We had also one of the best musical experience of our trip in Trinidad – on the stairs to Casa de la musica. Nice day trip is by bike around Playa Ancon – clean and warm water and enjoyable snorkeling.
On the way to Santiago we stopped in Spiritus Sancti – pleasant old place but half day was enough. Overnight bus to Santiago and then straight to Baracoa.

Baracoa is a place you can spend plenty of time – there are hikes (we did Yungue), beaches (Managua – the beach we liked most while in Cuba – clear water and sand, beach umbrella, cheap food and rum – can you ask for more?), nightlife (many places), very good food, wonderful chocolate place and best peso pizza in the small square with trees (cant remember the name, 5 CUP) … And still Baracoa seems unaffected by tourism. We stayed 4 days and it could have been more. Accommodation: Manuel Torres (Telf. 0121 – 54 -3624) for 15 CUC/ double – is not directly in the centre but with the big terrace on the top of the house. Recommended. One thing we would not recommend is buying nuts on the streets there – we got quite sick from them. Also the people there are very open and welcoming, so we managed to get close to them.

Santiago de Cuba was our next stop. Some say it is more real Cuba than Havana, maybe rightly so with its busy streets and music everywhere. Attended private salsa class and baseball game there (the only annoying thing is that you pay not 1 CUP as Cubans but 3 CUC… still fun though). The highlight for me was the Velasquez house – a real historical jewel and spiritual place. Also enjoyable was sunset watching from Hotel Casa Granda´s roof. We stayed for 25 CUC/dbl incl. small breakfast close to the bus station. Clean and safe (sellcorria@yahoo.es).

Camaguey is all right, we stayed only for a night. Drinking town with nice bars. The best place to spend the evening would be Parque Ingancio Agramonte, where you have a very good CUP restaurant (but be there on time – 6PM – the food gets eaten fast!), nice bar on the corner and Casa de la Trova to wrap it up. On the main street is tavern where they have a Bucanero from tap (if you don´t mind rats..). Good market every morning in the area close to the river. We rented a last available car in the city in hotel Plaza next to train station (I think it was from Cubacar office) – Atos for 55 CUC/day and headed north.
Our aim was to spend some time in deserted Cayo Sabinal, but unfortunately it was closed due to military emergency (it was by the time Chavez lost his referendum..). Anyway we found out that only at the main gate entering the island (after 100 km ride). The road was very rough after rain and we got stuck, mosquitoes everywhere, chimneys of Nuevistas far away -fun. Our Atos got quite some beating. We had to change our plans and went to Playa Santa Lucia. There we rewarded ourselves only budget accommodation around in a cosy motel (35 CUC/ double, is in a LP) right on the beach. I would not rate the area so highly, but it is ok and more laid-back than other resorts. From there we headed on surprisingly good roads to Moron, little town close to the entrance to Cayo Coco. The town is enjoyable, especially if you get close to the locals (Cuban peso bars, buffets) and it is very hard to believe that luxurious resorts of Cayo Coco are just around the corner (eventhough majority of people allegedly works there). There are 113 casas particulares in this little town – should not have problems there. We went to the remotest beaches of all – Playa Pilar, Cayo Guillermo, about 70 km from the coast. Paradise. On the way back to Camaguey we stopped at Ciego de Avila, where the highlight was the visit of local tobacco factory (excursion and purchase of freshly made cigars - bargain).

Overall we enjoyed this trip very much, without any major setbacks and although I am not sure, if I am going back anytime soon – I would recommend to visit Cuba for the social, musical, political and crystal-clear water experience.